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Godfrey Deeny Published
March 24, 2025
Paris-based brand Sandro has debuted a Louise Bourgeois-inspired collection almost a quarter-century after the great French-American artist unveiled her most famous work.
The collection comes to market amid a powerful creative surge at Sandro, which staged an impressively elegant presentation of its latest ideas inside the Musée Bourdelle earlier this month.
Twenty-five years ago, Bourgeois' legendary giant spider named "Maman" dwarfed the Turbine Room when Tate Modern was opened on the banks of the Seine. Though the Sandro collection is far more about spirals than spiders, the house's founder and artistic director, Evelyne Chetrite, delves deeper into the artistic universe of Louise Bourgeois. Hence, this Spring/Summer 2025 collection plays on the symbolic resonance of spirals to Bourgeois, which evokes memories of her childhood.
Highlights include pale blue and white linen tea dresses, halter-neck picnic dresses, azure and cream geometric-pattern poplin cotton blouses, and black and white spider-web tops and pants.
The Paris-born but New York-based artist Bourgeois worked frequently with textiles, using fabrics from her own wardrobe and home as raw materials in her creative process—ideas that find their roots in her own parents' art gallery, which dealt mainly in tapestries.
"Long before upcycling became a trend, Louise Bourgeois had already integrated it into her creative process. This attention to extending the life of materials resonates particularly with Sandro's values and has inspired the design studio," Sandro explained in a release.
Earlier in March, Sandro held a swish cocktail in the Montparnasse museum, where the latest looks were positioned on stockmen among the great works of sculpture by Antoine Bourdelle.
For women, the highlights included très chic funnel-neck suede curvy blousons worn with ruffled denim skirts and double-face wool coats paired with worn jeans and silver-tipped suede biker boots. These looks stood proudly beside a giant "Death of the Last Centaur" plaster statue.
For men, the presentation featured flared-pants suits with double-breasted jackets in pebble-dash wool, surgically cut burgundy leather jerkins, and 10-button tobacco wool double-breasted coats with real dandy insolence.
Sandro is a Parisian brand that has long been a leader in the accessible luxury segment. It is known for its men's and women's collections, which are both refined and quirky, with an added dose of bold attitude this season.
Evelyne Chetrite, founder and creative director since 1984, is noted for her precise aesthetic: modern, sophisticated clothing that doesn't cause much pain at the cash register. Since 2008, Ilan Chetrite, Evelyne's son, has been developing the Sandro Homme line, focusing on classics reimagined with a modern touch—a little like Bourdelle, whose mum was a weaver by profession.
Sandro boasts over 750 points of sale worldwide. Today, it is the key brand in the Sandro, Maje, and Claudie Pierlot Group, known as SMCP.