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Godfrey Deeny Published
January 23025快排劫持节点 2025
Though technically the latest collection by Pieter Mulier for the house of Alaïa was ready-to-wear, the sheer sublimity of the clothes made one think this was the most original couture of the season.
Presented on Tuesday night – halfway through the Paris haute couture season - inside Alaïa’s boutique on central rue Marignan, this was a superlative effort by Mulier. Its sublime silhouettes, novel but always elegant proportions and rigorous self-edit made this feel like a fashion moment.
Staged as the French like to say en petit comité, or before a wee gang, of some 60 people in three tight shows.
The key opening material was multi-strands of twisted knit merino wool, shaped into tunics, curvy cocktails, and jumpsuits with billowing legs – in a cool fashion vernacular.
Pieter cut with real drama – French Revolutionary femme fatale coats, cutaway like asymmetrical frocks, or a series of stupendous denim harem pants.
Weaving dense clouds of wool in cloudy like cocoon coats or as puff balls around the wrists of sleek cocktail dresses and dynamic tutus. Minimalist highwayman coats were so Alaïa, one thought the master was still alive. While a rippling accordion pleat dress in inky blue earned an audible ripple of approval, as Mulier was gutsy enough to break new ground.
The mood managed to be arty, intellectual and yet also sexy – an uncanny balancing act. The entire cast was obviously amped up, clearly enjoying wearing the clothes – professional models sensing the collection’s importance. The audience – perched on rhomboid shaped couches - seemed to visibly breathe faster.
“I always wanted Alaïa to be about more than the clothes. Because it is… It’s about life and about being together,” commented Mulier.
At first glance, Mulier could be said to have the ideal job, able to play with the immensely powerful DNA developed over four decades by Azzedine Alaïa.
But that would be a mistake, as so many people hold very definite ideas about what Alaïa stands for, making progress tricky. But this evening in Paris with a ready-to-wear show during couture, Mulier truly established his right to bear the mantle of Alaïa. So far, the best collection in the world this year.