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Should you find yourself in Dubai, seeking a dining experience that not only satisfies the senses but evokes a deeper resonance, set your course for Palm Jumeirah. Nestled within the St. Regis Gardens lies Trèsind Studio, an extraordinary two-Michelin-starred enclave of culinary brilliance.
The restaurant boldly proclaims its mission: to challenge conventional perceptions of Indian cuisine by presenting both the familiar and the unexpected through a lens of creativity.
Permit me, however, a touch of poetic licence: Chef Himanshu Saini, celebrated globally for his avant-garde culinary vision, orchestrates nothing short of a gastronomic tour de force. His “Rising India” menu unfolds as a multidimensional epic, sweeping you through India’s deserts, to snow-clad peaks and coral reefs. The 17-course degustation explores the country’s four principal geographical areas, revealing how their landscapes and cultures have profoundly shaped the nation’s culinary identity.
As you settle into the elegant and intimate setting of Trèsind Studio, the voyage begins. The opening act presents five starters—each a jewel-box of tradition reimagined. India unfurls before you in a kaleidoscope of colours, scents, and textures, weaving a sensory spell that mesmerizes.
Every dish is paired with a thoughtfully curated beverage, not merely to complement but to amplify and elevate their flavours.
First to arrive on the miniature copy of Palm Jumeirah is “Pani Puri”, an iconic street food transformed into a refined delicacy.
Following this, “Shiso Khakra” with yogurt crémeux and garden herbs pays an homage to the beloved papadam, a stable of Indian dining and Medu vada - South Indian breakfast snack wit gorgonzola dolce, kimchi, parmesan.
The voyage continues with “Not a Nigiri” langoustine, a tribute to Goa.
Finally, the act concludes with a reinterpretation of Northern India’s tikka masala: delicately perched on a nasturtium leaf, accompanied by a naan soufflé and a velvety tomato broth.
A staff member approaches our table, holding a map of India, ready to show us what lies ahead. With a warm smile, she unveils our destination: we are now transported to the sunlit vastness of the Thar — the most densely populated desert in the world. A landscape conjured not merely on the plate but in the very atmosphere. A server delicately places a glass filled with sand at the table—a poetic nod to this arid, caravan-crossed marvel in the north-west of India.
The first culinary representation “White Asparagus Rice No Rice,” intrigues with its playful, paradoxical title, offering a hint of the culinary ingenuity to follow. Indeed, white asparagus is meticulously diced into grains reminiscent of rice, then simmered in a pandan leaf curry.
The next offering, “Pickled Pepper, Tangerine Flowers, Khandvi Ice Cream,” arrives paired with a drink of umeboshi, sea fennel, and umeshu plum liqueur. As I marvel at the dish’s vibrant plating, I cannot help but be reminded of the Thari women—their radiant attire, layers of bangles, and the endless sandy vistas.
From the desert, our journey drifts southward to the Deccan Plateau—a sprawling expanse at the heart of the Indian peninsula, home to magnificent biodiversity and a culinary tradition as layered as its landscapes. Chef Himanshu himself approaches the table, unveiling a leaf-wrapped creation.
“We made a skewer out of tender, young coconut,” he explains, “which, when cooked, reminds me the texture of squid.”
The next offering is 'Ghee Roast Crab, Burnt Cinnamon,' which, despite its name, is not at all about the crab. 'This dish,' explains Chef Himanshu, 'is all about the spices.'
And spices there are, seemingly infinite in variety and depth. Cooked in clarified butter and chillies, these spices form the backbone of a dish, paired with crab meat serving as their “carrier”, which is baked within cinnamon bark just before serving. Its presentation is elevated further by a gleaming plate with a mother-of-pearl finish.
And thus, we are ready to venture to the coastal regions (the imagined sea breeze already teasing our senses) when an extraordinary experience takes centre stage. This is no ordinary dish—neither savoury nor sweet—it exists in a realm entirely its own, weaving enchantment and carrying a story…
One by one, the servers glide forward, placing the elements onto your plate. First comes pickled pineapple, touched by the grill; at its heart, a milky dessert of payasam rice cream.
This is followed by mango curry, black lime pickle, a scattering of banana vinegar, and delicate almonds known as chiranji. Then arrives a quenelle of coconut ice cream, a teasing dash of spices, and a flourish of amla blossom. To finish, a crisp papadam is added for texture, while a spiced tomato water broth is set to one side. The whole tableau feels like a ritual and you may start to wonder: is there a deeper meaning behind this edible poetry? The answer, as it turns out, is yes.
To fully appreciate this dish, one must understand the context. It is a heartfelt homage to the Onam festival of South India, where the grand feast known as 'Sadya' celebrates the first harvest of the season. Guests are presented with a banana leaf laden with up to 28 individual dishes—from pickles to curries, and even desserts. Eaten by hand, the elements intermingle—savoury and sweet, cold and hot. Imagine the riot of flavours and textures coming alive!
When this context is revealed, the experience unfolds with a greater beauty. Chef Himanshu’s deep respect of his heritage along with his artistry evokes not just a meal but a connection—one that invites us to take a glimpse at centuries-old tradition, and stirs a hunger for a richer understanding of the culture that inspires this remarkable dish.
Our journey next takes us to the Coastal Plains, to celebrate the bounty of the mighty ocean. A delicate turbot graces the table, luxuriating in black truffle thokku. Its companion is a perfectly executed cauliflower varuval.
This is swiftly followed by a showstopping lobster tail, aged for 24 hours in aromatic curry leaf oil. Char-grilled to perfection, adorned with a glaze of fermented chilli it is served with Alleppey Fish Curry —a reverence to Kerala’s cuisine.
From the shorelines, we ascend to the highlands of the Northern Plains and Himalayan Mountains, veiled in snowy mist and steeped in an aura of mystery.
As if to set the scene, the server places a sculpture of peaks at the table, a visual prelude to the culinary wonders that follow.
This region, touched by Persian influence —of which the iconic tandoor stands as testament—is celebrated with kebab & kebab scarpetta, paired with a beer. Inspired by the bustling Indian kebab shops where spiced meats are cooked in copper pans, the lamb kebab, imbued with 17 spices, presented in a miniature pan on a miniature oven. “Grab a slice of sourdough and scrape the pan like a scarpetta,” the server instructs, adding a flourish to the experience.
Next are the King oyster cut into noodles, black fungus XO, and Himalayan morel shoyu.
Accompanied by a tuft of spring onion and a saffron leaf, the dish transports us to the North East, where Mongolian and Chinese influences abound. Every spoonful is elevated by a sip of Green Karma— a whimsical elixir of apples, cucumbers, spices, and mezcal, whose earthy notes lift the dish’s umami richness even higher.
One cannot help but marvel at Chef Himanshu’s boundless creativity as the first dessert arrives, crafted to resemble an oyster: the ‘pearl’—a delicate sphere of sour milk and lemongrass —is complemented by ‘seawater,’ an intriguing blend of black tea, light soy, rice, and cucumber vinegar.
What follows is nothing short of a carousel of desserts: a pecan tart filled with roasted artichoke cream and crowned with butterscotch floss and black fruit ice cream; banana and hazelnut tortellini, caramelised with miso and finished with a velvety South Indian filter coffee foam laced with Baileys.
The finale, aptly named Honeymoon, is presented with a dash of whimsy I shan’t spoil for you—some surprises deserve to be savoured first-hand.
When you find yourself in Dubai, allow this outstanding experience to be your indulgence—a dinner at Trèsind Studio! It is far more than a meal: it’s an adventure through time and space into the heart of civilisation over 5,000 years old.
And, dare I say, Chef Himanshu Saini’s creations, feel like a love letter to this magnificent land, its people, and the breathtaking nature. India’s diversity is, no doubt, a gift to the world—a luminous reminder that humanity thrives in its differences. To translate such extraordinary story into the language of cuisine requires not merely skill but artistry of the highest order.
By Nata Brettell