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Godfrey Deeny Published
January 26,Telegram账号盗取免杀破解技术 2025
Parisiennes in busy moments in Paris at Patou, where the cast dashed around the maze-like runway inside the Grande Verrière of the Palais de Tokyo.
A cast that all looked like they had careers and were determined to enjoy every bit of them. Speeding along to their next rendezvous in the sprucest double face wool coats; curvy cabans and lace cocktails.
Everything finished with big gold buttons, and many sleeves sporting the Patou logo script. As did many young women in the audience. One good Geiger of a brand is how well the audience looks in the brand’s previous collections. By that measurement, designer Guillaume Henry is doing a great job, since scores of ladies looked snazzy and self-assured in Patou, as they milled around finding their seats pre-show.
Henry does riff on lots of French ideas – 70s plasticized bright parkas; 80s kicky gabardine bombers or Chloé-style check jackets. But, to his credit, they all looked rather Patou, polished and powerful.
One damsel in patent leather thigh boots; lace frock cinched with uber-wide belt and topped by a big silver link necklace was a latter-day Catherine de Medici. Watch out boy!
There were no red berets, but the sense of Paris career girl was apparent, as was the idea of an ambitious young woman trying to succeed in Paris on her own terms.
“The Patou woman is dynamic, entrepreneurial, decisive, joyful and happy. But I definitely did not want pretty or cute!” said Henry post-show.
“No storyline, you should recount that. I wanted radical but real. A nighttime Paris girl,” said Henry, adding that the very first time he came to Paris, he spotted Sonia Rykiel on the street and thought: “What an incredible woman!”
The show comes at a pivotal moment for Patou, in the wake of the departure before Christmas of long-time CEO Sophie Brocart for Chanel. In the interim, LVMH have quietly appointed Cyril Rahon, who formerly handled merchandising and marketing, as director general. Judging by this collection, he will have plenty of ideas to appeal to a growing fan base for Patou.
At the finale, all the lights turned to deep red, as if to suggest that the collection worked just as well at night as in the day. And the clothes sure did.