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September 24, 2025
While consumption of textiles and clothing continues its downward trend in France, showing a decline of 1.9% over the first seven months of the year compared to 2025 and a drop of 8.5% in value compared to 2025, according to the IFM (Institut français de la mode), fashion and accessories brands seem to be strengthening their ties with their retailers around one keyword: flexibility. With collections reworked according to demand, or even the weather, and reactivity when it comes to restocking, the fashion industry is adapting, as FashionNetwork.com found out when we took advantage of the autumn trade fairs to meet them.
A rethought offer
At Who's Next, held at Porte de Versailles in Paris (16th arrondissement) from September 8 to 10, Vincent Zhang of women's ready-to-wear brand Garance Paris explained that "very few people are taking risks with this spring-summer 2025 season. Like many others, we have worked on our best pieces and updated them in new colours." He also notes that retailers are holding large stocks.
On the accessories front, Céline Thomas, founder and director of the Mi-Mai footwear label, has also reworked her offering, proposing more distinctive models, with rounded heels for example. And the designer, who says that her brand is growing nicely, explains that she is also going to adapt her range to climate change. "This year, the start of the summer season was marked by bad weather. So we're going to be focusing on closed-toe shoes for our summer season, and offering fewer sandals, which women tend to buy on special offer. We will also be strengthening our ceremonial line, which is doing very well, even with the vagaries of the weather."
DNVBs in search of physical anchors
With acquisition costs having tripled in recent years, DNVBs - brands born on the web - are turning their attention to retail. At the start of the Who's Next trade show, PÖ&ME, the Parisian leather goods brand that has long been sold via its e-shop and boutique in the 3rd arrondissement of Paris, is now looking to multi-brand retailers to help it find new sources of growth. It's a move the label had already begun before Covid, when it started to invest in department stores.
Emoi Emoi, which took part for the first time in the Maison & Objet trade fair held from September 5 to 9 at the Paris Nord Villepinte exhibition centre, has also been opening up to physical sales for the past year. And with a range of products for the whole family in several categories - fashion, home decoration, stationery - the approach seems to be a winning one. The label already has a presence in around a hundred points of sale, thanks to an offer that has been calibrated for concept stores.
According to Mélanie Leroy, general manager of Maison & Objet, the future belongs to outlets offering a multi-category range. With an offer ranging from fashion and beauty to home decoration and kitchen accessories, the director believes that the show has everything it takes to appeal to concept stores. However, at its last edition, the design mega-show recorded a 10% drop in visitors (-12% for retailers) due to the Paris Olympics.
This approach based around different categories was also highlighted at Who's Next, where for the first time the B2B digital platform Ankorstore, which joined forces with the Comexposium group last year, had a large space to showcase around twenty lifestyle brands for the home and children's accessories. A very wide selection in terms of categories that attracted many visitors.
"None of these exhibitors had ever taken part in a Who's Next," explains Nicolas d'Audiffret, co-founder of the platform, who adds that around fifty brands were exhibiting in the rest of the show. "We are incapable of organising an event like Who's Next, but we are strong in digital. And we are convinced that we need both to reinvent retail by offering a range of products and services that brands and retailers are looking forward to." Among these offers, Ankorstore has made a name for itself in recent years by financing a 60-day payment period for retailers, whereas brands are paid within 15 days.
"For some customers, we provide thousands of euros in credit," explains the manager. "This allows them to try out new products and sell them before paying for them. It's been a difficult year, even though the end of the year is off to a good start. The context makes our offer more attractive. From the outset, we've tried to make it easier for retailers to do business. This means being able to offer low minimum orders to limit their risks, give them easy payment terms and provide them with more and more logistics services to give them flexibility and speed. I'm convinced that wholesale has a bright future ahead of it, but we all need to reinvent ourselves." With this in mind, Ankorstore is preparing a solution to further simplify order-taking during physical appointments.
Frédéric Maus, head of Who's Next, agrees, pointing out that while "not all concept stores are going to be fashion stores, all fashion shops are going to become more concept stores." And the figures seem to be pointing in this direction: according to the organisers, the number of visitors to Who's Next rose by 16% over the September session, boosted by the boom in concept stores, which are paying particular attention to accessories.
Closer links
"Attendance is clearly higher on the accessory, beauty, footwear and jewellery levels (...) For ready-to-wear, there are major disparities. Some brands with a creative approach are doing very well. The relationship with retailers is also essential. Some play the game and have an intelligent approach, paying attention to the needs of multi-brands. They also work in depth on the selectivity and positioning of their brand," explains Frédéric Maus.
For Yves Casile, head of women's ready-to-wear brand Nathalie Chaize: "It's essential these days to have a strong presence with our retailers, to build up a strong relationship. In a difficult period when many independent boutiques are closing, we have to show solidarity: we do them favours, for example by exchanging Nathalie Chaize items that they are not selling for other products in the collection. We also try to be very quick when it comes to restocking, and to respond immediately to their requests."
The Treille label from Marseilles stresses that, while trade shows are great opportunities to meet customers, going to meet them in their homes is a more effective way of forging working relationships.
"Today we have around twenty dealers. But what was most effective was to take the van and present the collection to multi-brand retailers who were sensitive to our focus on style and production in France. It's this direct relationship that makes the difference and allows us to open new points of sale," says the brand, which was born in 2025.
The editorial team