飞机盗号软件云控破解技术|【唯一TG:@heimifeng8】|黑帽快排API网关✨谷歌搜索留痕排名,史上最强SEO技术,20年谷歌SEO经验大佬✨Matteo Tamburini debuts with dash at revitalized Tod’s
Godfrey Deeny Published
February 23,飞机盗号软件云控破解技术 2025
It bucketed rain all Friday morning in Milan, but it did not rain on the debut at Tod’s of new designer Matteo Tamburini, who staged a compelling statement of contemporary Italian sportswear.
A collection that suggested motion by its location inside the main depot of Milan’s tram system. And by the fact that this was the first collection presented by Tod’s since its deal last week, which saw L Catterton and LVMH acquire 46% of the group.
In effect, Tamburini’s debut was a highly reassuring display of polished Italian style, presented on a silver metal catwalks extending between scores of carefully polished trams, some dating back to the 19th century.
The designer concentrated on what Tod’s is best at, sleek leather shirt jackets; double-breasted lambskin gunners coats; gentlemanly great coats and snazzy deerskin redingotes. Everything was spruce and fresh; the leathers all looked like they were carefully ironed.
In a co-ed show, he cut pants wide and long, with three-inch turnups. Sometimes worn with glove leather tunics or surgeon’s smocks and chunky woolen tank tops that all looked great. Plus, Matteo finished these looks and cable wool cardigans with leather straps and back belts.
Tamburini cut with volume – with engulfing spy coats and trenches; and favored forgiving silhouettes – easier to wear by people on the move, the target market of these clothes. Everything was easy to understand and very wearable; so much so general manager Carlo Beretta greeted guests pre-show wearing a very natty Tamburini micro herring bone slate gray coat with leather insert beneath the collar, the same look that then appeared on the runway.
“A soft approach to the brand, and a reminder of what Tod’s is famous for – Italian lifestyle, craft, luxury materials. But in a different language, dynamism, people in movement, and hence this unique location,” said Tamburini, standing before a mood board featuring Gianni Agnelli, Lady Di and an image of Umberto Boccioni’s Futurist statue of a dashing man.
A show featuring plenty of fresh accessories: a cool new wedged gommino; long belts with grilled oval buckles; excellent boots with upper side buckles and precise rectangular heels.
Prior to Tod’s, Tamburini had spent seven years at Bottega Veneta, working under three creative directors there – Tomas Maier, Daniel Lee and most recently Matthieu Blazy, who sat front row in support of his former women’s design director.
“Matteo is very talented and I am sure he is going to be a great success at Tod’s,” said Blazy, who presents his next collection for Bottega Veneta on Saturday night.
Tamburini succeeds Walter Chiapponi, who left last year to become creative director of Blumarine. Matteo was born in Urbino, the ancient Roman hilltop city in Le Marche, the same region as Tod’s.
“Tod’s has been in my DNA ever since I grew up seeing my father and mother wearing Tod’s shoes for special occasions,” he smiled.
Backed up by a great soundtrack – blending Leonard Cohen and Bjork’s soaring tune Hunter- there was an air of quiet celebration about this show, and Tamburini’s debut. And of Italian fashion, and its capital Milan, even if the heavens were sending down a deluge.
For if there is one thing the Milanese are proud of its their trams. The system dates back to 1881 and sums the virtues of Italy and Tod’s – hard work, reliability, longevity and a much-loved heritage.