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Godfrey Deeny Published
February 19, 2025
Ballet and movement were the leitmotif of a marvelous collection by Roksanda Ilincic, clothes whose romantic jauntiness were in stark contrast to the steady rain of a battleship gray London Monday morning.
Her starting point: the artistic ferment of French artist Caroline Denervaud, whose bold hangings separated the catwalk in half. Like Denervaud art, bold organic shapes done in dusky pastels, the clothes referenced movement and dance, as evening dresses with massive accordion pleats bobbed about the runway opposite Victoria Station.
Above all, the color palette was truly exceptional: faded blends of turquoise, rose, lime and lemon. For several seasons, Ilincic has been by far the UK’ season’s finest colorist. She is again this week.
“I was inspired very much by Caroline, as you can see. Though what I really wanted above all was to create a wardrobe for all hours of the day,” explained the Serbian-born, but London-based, Roksanda Ilincic.
What’s most impressive about Roksanda, as everyone refers to her, is her range. So she can cut a trim town coat in cashmere like a surgeon and then, in her next look, send out a flawlessly draped art gallery dress. Her choice of semi-abstract prints based on Denervaud imagery was ideal and the contrast in colors always seemed just right.
Roksanda received an immense cheer when she took her bow before an audience crammed full of buyers and included Anna Wintour, who applauded keenly. Even the pre-show choice of music – Dizzy Gillespie and Miles Davis – seemed ideal, in a collection, which confirmed Roksanda as very much being a designer in the zone.