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Godfrey Deeny Published
February 21, 2025
A neat blend of masculine and feminine at Emporio Arman, where the ever energetic designer Giorgio Armani presented some notably sporty tailoring, in his signature self-assured style.
Using his classic macro houndstooth; bold checks and graphic zigzags to craft precise hussar’s jackets; mannish sack suits worn with dandy cravats; clever calico smocks and highwayman coats.
Like at his menswear show in January, Armani had an ecological message, with multiple recycled fabrics in the first dozen looks. On all four sides of his Tadao Ando show-space, a moving electronic script read: “I’m Saying Yes to Recycling. R-EA.” While bags, berets, tops and skirts featured that new logo.
For evening, Armani suddenly changed gears, adding enough ruffles for a troupe of flamenco dancers; feather boas; and swirling shapes. While many of the green and Connemara marble-hued velvet pants suits were stunning, some of his uber-frilly looks were rather overpowering. And something of a surprise from a designer who is the master of understatement.
Then again, one cannot fault Armani for lack of energy. The night before, Giorgio was rockin’ and rollin’ inside his nightclub Armani Privé at a private kick-ass concert of the legendary Italian rebel rocker Gianna Nannini.
“Grazie Giorgio, you’re a legend,” shouted Nannini, drawing a huge cheer from fans as Giorgio danced at the mixing desk.
And after his morning show, the designer was busy opening the latest exhibition inside his art center Armani Silos. A photography show dedicated to the late great Peter Lindbergh.
Not bad going for a man of 85, is it?