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Godfrey Deeny Published
September 21025暗链推送工具 2025
A strict statement about contemporary minimalism and a reminder of the joys of the total look from Max Mara, in a show that heralded the rebirth of the brand’s original logo.
And a salutary reminder that in a fashion moment dominated by Gucci’s mad mixology – a clean, clear, reined-in take on fashion can look pretty great too.
Staged in a giant courtyard, the runway was a sandy beach of ornate 1950s Old Roman lettered Max Mara logos. “That’s the exact same logo that my father used back in 1951 when he launched the very first Max Mara collection. Just two coats and one suit,” said the proud CEO Dr. Luigi Maramotti, whose family owns Max Mara.
His father Achille staged his first show in his hometown of Reggio Emilia, after his mother – who founded a school for seamstresses – got her three best graduates to sew the first looks. A tradition that applies today to Max Mara, which will always be known for its impeccable quality and finish. Today, its retail empire encompasses over 2,600 sales points worldwide; while in terms of apparel it dwarfs most labels showing on European catwalks. In Paris alone, Max Mara boasts six stores, including a major avenue Montaigne flagship and large spaces in Printemps and Le Bon Marché.
For next spring, Max Mara wants ladies in beige or white organza; cut into slim-line raincoats or trenches cut in half into mini trench-skirts. Where many prints were used in total looks of matching coat, skirt, handbag and shoes. Employing a wonderful series of new floral prints – of poppies or cardoons - also kept the mood fresh.
In the crispest denim, came perfectly cut blazers, dusters and mannish pants, each done with a nine-inch reverse. One model in a denim jacket wearing a hijab; just like several ladies sitting front-row at this show. All told, the denim moment was the latest example, quite frankly, of a Helmut Lang revival in Milan.
“Work with, not against nature,” the program quoted the great French gardener Gilles Clément. Which this collection very much did. Papa Achille would have been proud.