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January 12, 2025
In a laidback ambiance, the first three days of the sixth edition of London's Men's Fashion Week focused on two trends: elegant casual and combat.
More cosy and relaxed than London Fashion Week for women, London Collections: Men started with a flourish on Friday 9 January by Topman. This fashion show, which usually sets the key trends for the season, was largely inspired by the peace and lovespirit of the 1970s by celebrating traditional pieces from this era with a fireworks of colours (yellow, red…): bell-bottoms, closely-fitting jackets, prints, high-waisted denim pants, long oversized coats, fake fur and, of course, seep-skinned collars, a major classic for the next season.
At Christopher Shannon, the relaxed style includes avant-garde hues: heads are covered with striped plastic bags and knitwear is covered with targeted messages (Thanks 4 Nothing).
The hat is the key article at Kit Neale, in a circus-inspired show. A little more sensible, Joseph also manages to combine couture and casual in pieces where the motifs and colours are inspired by the work from artist Sean Scully: noble materials - with flannel on top - are presented in shades of ecru, chestnut-brown and grey.
Opposite to this trend, certain designers chose to take on the theme of combat by infiltrating urban worlds inspired by cultures of combat: at Rory Parnell-Mooney, faces disappeared behind visors in a monastic and warrior-inspired show.
A slight variation at Maharishi, where ninja combat was the star of the show: black baseball caps were lowered and covered the faces to ensure an effect of discretion.
Back to the American continent at Coach, where camouflage took over, with large cuts of sheepskin: exposed sheepskin was a huge part of the military coats and jackets, but also bomber and motorcycle jackets.
During a catwalk in a closed down warehouse along the Thames, Alexander McQueen also showed off his re-worked uniform: while on one hand the fashion house reinterpreted the businessman wardrobe, on the other it also modernised the military uniform through fitted khaki coats with an elegance we rarely see.
Stéphanie Salti