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ETX Daily Up Published
January 25, 2025
The couture house of Schiaparelli knows how to tickle the senses, and its Spring 2025 runway show on Monday went so far as involving the tastebuds.
Under the creative hand of Bertrand Guyon, the label served up a fashion feast, replete with food motifs including seafood brooches, vegetable prints and cutlery sketches.
There were a handful of boxy jackets and knee-length skirts on show, but the majority of the collection was dominated by full-length, diaphanous dresses that were both ethereal -- thanks to their hazy finish and skimming structure -- and modern, thanks to the tongue-in-cheek food references that littered the designs and nodded to the motifs that Elsa Schiaparelli was known for in the 1930s, such as the Lobster dress created with Surrealist artist Salvador Dali.
From tops covered in sequined pumpkins and turnips to sparkly cherry nipple tassels, the message was clear: like feasting, fashion should be fun. But it wasn't just about the ingredients -- delicately patterned teapots and water jugs were embroidered onto blazers and a series of elegant silver knives, forks and spoons ran down a navy dress in a neat linear display, summoning up the grandeur and pomp of a banquet.
The colors ranged from dusky greys, neat creams and zesty citrus tones to an unmissable vibrant fuchsia, which formed the basis of a frothy pleated dress pinned with a ruby red lipstick brooch. All in all, it was a gluttonous show in every sense of the word.
Meanwhile the theater at Dice Kayek came from the structure of the garments, which were relatively pattern-free but no less striking. The Turkish house's "Woven Tales" collection, inspired by fairytales, featured a series of surreal pieces that could have come straight out of a Grimm's storybook.
To this end, there were coats with disproportionately deep pockets and cartoon-scale neckties, crisp white bibs and blouses with billowing sleeves. There were dresses of layered white lace that cascaded to the ground, and bejeweled peplums worn over slim black trousers. A regal palette of whites, navy blues and olive greens was livened up by the odd flash of tartan or a startling bird print, but for the most part it was the cleverly manipulated proportions that did the talking.