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Godfrey Deeny Published
January 27,TG账号盗取免杀破解技术 2025
Daniel Roseberry entitled his latest couture collection for the house of Schiaparelli as "Icarus," but unlike in the ancient myth, the couturier certainly didn’t fall to earth.
If anything, his ideas soared in this show, staged in fine morning light inside the Petit Palais in Paris, marking the debut runway display of the four-day and 29 show Paris haute couture season.
Though most of the silhouettes were in fact culled from classical couture, notably the curvy entre-deux-guerres shapes, albeit given a Schiaparelli surrealist spin.
So, curvaceous satin jackets had pagoda hips, and corset backs. Or a truly remarkable sculpted curvilinear corset – inspired by a lamp by Alberto Giacometti - morphed into a ground-touching nude tulle skirt.
One of Roseberry’s best qualities is his determination to test his own atelier – such as the audacious bustier cocktail with exaggerated hips that was entirely embroidered in trompe l’oeil pearls.
With the Oscars just five weeks away, stylists will scour this collection for red carpet movie-star looks, and they will not be disappointed. From the divine opera coat in “toasted” ostrich feathers, to a stupendous Chantilly lace bustier gown finished with organza flowers and cut to sit away from the torso revealing a bra beneath. Best of all, the sleeveless bevel-hipped gown with a volume torsade around the shins worn by Kendall Jenner.
Founder Elsa would also surely have loved the visual puns – such as the “fallen ball gown,” a golden butter-hued duchess satin robe that had slipped down to the waist, leaving the torso bedecked in black velvet.
The couture puns extending to the handbags – small evening bags finished with metal Greek god’s faces, passementerie and tassels.
Roseberry will always have a weakness for feathers, though this season toughened up by dipping them in glycerin.
“Creating something new, precisely because it was old,” explained Roseberry in his release, whose starting points was discovering old ribbons from Lyon, that were hidden during WW2. Ribbons sewn into several looks in this beguiling collection.
Back up by a dramatic soundtrack including "Father Figure" by George Aaron, Roseberry had many guests standing and cheering as he took his long stroll down marble runway.
“About the title: 'haute couture' is by definition a quest for perfection. Each season can resemble a Don Quixote struggle, an ascension to a level of execution and an always higher vision,” underlined Roseberry.
In the myth, Icarus’ father, the master craftsman Daedalus, creates his son’s wings. But when he flies to high, the sun’s rays dissolves the wax that held the feathers together, sending Icarus plunging to earth, and death.
Not today in Paris in this Schiaparelli show, where the successor to Elsa soared.