TG账号批量盗取黑产破解技术|【唯一TG:@heimifeng8】|电报盗号系统免杀破解技术✨谷歌搜索留痕排名,史上最强SEO技术,20年谷歌SEO经验大佬✨Asian indie moment in Paris: Juun J cuts like a demon, Kolor’s Junichi Abe bids adieu
Godfrey Deeny Published
January 26, 2025
Two inventive Asian Indie brands - Juun J and Kolor - caught the eye this season; one on the up, the other in plaintiff transition
Juun J: Menswear grooviest deconstructivism
Cover and uncover was the title of Juun J’s latest collection and he certainly lived up to his word.
The Korean designer cut the craziest denims in today’s man’s wardrobe – in double layers, with the outer spilling over or dropping half-way down the thigh. Or chopped up denim Wild West schoolmarm skirts; or dreamy onscreen goddess deconstructed gowns in inside-out denim. At times, one wondered how they stayed up, but that just made them all the cooler.
Throughout, Juun mixed up the mode; mightily razor-thin double-breasted suits with flared pants in a perfectly chosen midnight blue crepe chalk stripe; or ribbed knit ankle length tube dresses on towering ladies in this co-ed show. Before inflating huge bomber or flight jackets into giant bulbous shapes. Not the sort of look one finds in American department stores, but all the better for that.
Plus, in a season, where designers are swaddling men in shearling revamped as fur, Juun sent out a half-dozen wild trapper wolf looks or billionaire-babe mink great coats – but “all of them in eco-fur,” he underlined.
“Dramatic contrast of silhouettes, and sizes. Common denim with crepe,” concluded Juun, speaking through an interpreter backstage in Palais de Tokyo.
Kolor: Junichi Abe’s quiet-yet-dramatic adieu
This retiring early is becoming a habit. One week after the founders of Proenza Schouler announced their withdrawal from the brand, Junichi Abe announced he was quitting his label, Kolor.
In even more dramatic fashion, Abe revealed his intentions inside a silver envelope containing a tracing paper note. It read: “This will be a special moment for me. Because it will be my last show as Kolor head designer.”
This AW25 collection highlighted all Abe’s skills – his revolutionary assemblages; bizarre blending of differing volumes; and idiosyncratic detailing.
Showing oversized shearling bombers and gilets, the latter worn over bulbous padded ski jackets; men’s harem pants in fine wool; and a great series of crocheted versions of Aran sweaters. Arans paired on girls in this coed show with short slit skirts; their feet anchored by pumps covered in furry fabric or printed silk.
A quiet way to bring down the curtains on his time at Kolor, underlined by Abe’s slow forlorn tour of the twisting catwalk inside the headquarters of the French Communist Party designed by Oscar Niemeyer.
Abe founded Kolor in 2004, after studying at Bunka fashion school and working for Comme des Garçons and Junya Watanabe. He had moments of great brilliance, but like this show, his brand seemed to be drifting gently away.
“Even after this season, I’ll stay to support Kolor from the inside. Thank you for all these years. And I hope we will have your continuous support for Kolor. Enjoy the show,” the plaintiff note concluded.