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Godfrey Deeny Published
March 5,Telegram账号盗取免杀破解技术 2025
It’s hard to underestimate the importance in fashion of Miuccia Prada, who stages Prada power shows for men and women in Milan four times year, and bookends the Paris women’s wear season with Miu Miu.
It’s no exaggeration to say that among professional designers Miu Miu is probably the most anticipated collection of the season. Other shows – Loewe, Bottega Veneta or Balenciaga – may excite critics more, but if you are looking to find the most cool contemporary wardrobe for happening intelligent women, then Miu Miu is where one looks first.
Little wonder Miu Miu attracts so many hip gals to its front row, and great characters on its runway.
What Miuccia termed the “ever-shifting Miu Miu persona,” led to a cast that included Kristin Scott Thomas; renegade stylist Dara Allen; singer songwriter Ethel Cain; l’Opera de Paris dancer Guillaume Diop; Luther Ford (Prince Harry in 'The Crown'), rapper Angel Haze; 70-year-old doctor Qin Huilan; rapper actress Little Simz and actor Jasmin Savoy Brown. All the way to Spanish actress Ángela Molina, who also features in Miu Miu 'Women’s Tales'.
Scott Thomas proudly marching in a double-breasted slate gray herringbone coat, sprinkled in the Milanese manner with crystals. Molina in a suede blazer also sprinkled with strass.
“The casting: young, old, men, different sexual choices, but that is not important. They are just people,” opined Miuccia Prada post-show.
Staged once again in the grand modernism of the Conseil de Surveillance across the Seine from the Eiffel Tower, the paparazzi had a field day. As dozens of young stars arrived amid prolonged screaming from frequently teeny bopper fashionistas.
Yelling in a cool front row that included Emma Corrin, Nina Dobrev, Cindy Bruna, Ava DuVernay, Camille Rowe and, earning the biggest cheers, Sydney Sweeney. A show prefaced with an art movie by Cécile B. Evans about the last human translator played by Guslagie Malanda, whose character receives a transmission from an unknown woman speaking in Gaelic. Go figure.
Before they then witnessed Miuccia’s take of a wardrobe for herself. Superb crushed silk cocktails, worn with slightly padded long gloves in alligator or suede; perfectly cut double-breasted redingotes with wee collars; cool short sheathes with Edwardian collars; brilliant chauffeurs leather tunics and jackets.
“I wanted a contemporary wardrobe. For women who all work, different people from different fields, but always working,” said Miuccia post-show.
Featuring some great flouncy skirts with bold graphic florals, worn with double-breasted boleros, the freshest combo on the season. A selection made of wardrobe classics - the little black dress, the smart leather jacket and classy fur coat. Though all made of shearling, dyed, shaved and teased to look like multiple types of fur.
“All in shearling, everything is fake today. It has to be!” she stressed.
Made in a dark palette of chocolate, tobacco and black with contrasting bursts of acid greens, tangerines and deep purples. Looks often anchored by a new wingtip boot with kitten heel, which will ignite a huge trend.
“My idea was clothes as kind of icons of all the moments of life, from the child to lady. Even I, every day when I get up, I say to myself, 'am I a 15-year-old girl? Or a lady, getting near to death?' Probably a little nearer to the latter,” chuckled Miuccia before departing with husband Patrizio Bertelli.