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Dominique Muret Published
April 1, 2025
On the catwalk, they’re getting younger and younger... and then disappearing after a few seasons. Interchangeable, often with expressionless faces, their beauty doesn’t really correspond to the traditional ideal anymore. Within the span of a few years, modeling has completely changed. If we look more closely, the catwalks reflect a changing society. The only constant: a thin waist, which itself hasn’t changed despite issues raised by anorexia.
"We’ve gone from perfect faces to a beauty that’s harder, and almost aggressive. Now, brands are looking for unique beauties - girls with traits that make them special. For example, thin lips, a large nose, etc. In this new environment, pretty girls take second place," said Elena Mansueto, booking manager for the Milan branch of the modeling agency Elite Model.
"What’s more, this season there has been a heavy emphasis on androgyny. The masculine woman or feminine man dominated the catwalk. Similarly, we’re seeing the return of models of color, which are becoming more numerous, implying a message of cultural integration," said Mansueto.
This reflects the current cultural environment as illustrated in the advertising campaigns of certain major brands. Naomi Campbell and Jourdan Dunn, two sexy black supermodels, are currently in magazines as the face of Burberry’s new spring-summer 2025 campaign, while Barbados native and pop superstar Rihanna has just earned a prestigious contract with Dior, becoming the first black spokesperson for the French brand.
The wave of Russians and other lanky girls from Eastern Europe, with an icy, translucent beauty, seems exhausted. At the same time as the rise of models of color, over the past seasons, agencies have been seeing the return of European looks - the "new face" now from Belgium, Holland, Germany, France and Italy.
"Beauty has changed. There has been change in direction. Over the past several seasons, for example, we have seen more Italian models," further notes Elite Milano’s booking manager.
Elite Model Look, the competition organized by the agency that began to include men last year, has chosen two new "it girls" for the catwalks: Vittoria Ceretti and Greta Varlese, both Italian and both 16 years old. Something worth noting for hopefuls: applications for the agency’s new competition have just been opened.
Beyond styles and looks, the profession has changed a lot too. The era of flawless top models required by couturiers, who eventually find careers as businesswomen is over. Now, models are much younger and less experienced. Their careers begin at 15-16 years old and last until 25-30 years old in the best-case scenario.
"There’s a lot of turnover. Generations go by very quickly. There are twenty new faces for every season, whereas before models walked the catwalk for at least six or seven seasons," said Mansueto.
Payment has also gone from 1,000 to 5,000 euros maximum for a fashion show, as compared to 10,000 to 15,000 dollars 10-12 years ago…
€1 = $1.07/£0.73