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Godfrey Deeny Published
February 24, 2025
Chromatics – and the study of vibrant colors – was at the heart of the latest fluid and elongated collection and runway show of Missoni, staged Saturday night in Milan.
Creative director Angela Missoni chose a new show space – a giant ice palace built in the 1920s – and bathed the Liberty-style structure in bright blue.
"Stepping into the blue of a chroma key… teleporting characters across eras and places, in a flip," read the program note. The invitation had announced Angela’s intentions: a silk foulard in a chromatic display of blotchy colors with a blue leitmotif throughout.
The result was an extended and graceful silhouette, varying with some charming jacquard jackets worn with cowls and hijabs. Though the most dramatic looks were abstract floral-pattern jacquard coats worn with a funky chador. For evening, jumpsuits and halter necks sparkled in sapphire blue lamé.
The show was the latest in a run of co-ed shows in Milan, which this season included Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Giorgio Armani and Salvatore Ferragamo. No wonder, the Milan men’s season keeps shrinking!
For gents, Angela Missoni dreamed up tasteful jacquard cardigans, and some brilliant broken patchwork jackets. Classy looks for a chilly autumn weekend; casual chic at its best. While in the city, why not some gentlemanlydegradétop coats, bright blue at the shoulder and fading to pacific blue below the waist?
"A clean, pure direction. Nothing extraneous, true Missoni," insisted a smiling Angela Missoni in the backstage.
The entire cast bathed in blue, as the dramatic soundtrack featured Kevin Ayers cult classic "Two Goes into Four." A fitting song for a brand that has clearly been gathering momentum since last June, when Italian investment group FSI acquired a 41% stake in Missoni for 70 million euros.
The new financing is helping to extend the Missoni retail footprint, adding a half-dozen new stores this year from Miami and the Gulf to, most notably, a flagship on Madison Avenue.