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Godfrey Deeny Published
February 12, 2025
The reigning king of American sportswear, Michael Kors, was in ebullient form this season, presenting a powerful collection just off Wall street, on a crisp Wednesday morning, the final day of the New York season.
Staged inside the former New York Stock Exchange, an apt setting for Kors, a member of that most rarefied of clubs – the billionaire fashion designer. You can practically count them all on one hand, and with the exception of Giorgio Armani, they are all essentially American.
But Kors was in no mood to splurge on excess this season, instead he concentrated on comfort, and cozy glamour in one of his strongest statements in several seasons.
Almost every model was enveloped in cashgora cape coats, oversized Aran sweater dresses, cashmere ponchos, gun-check coatdresses or black Tattersall double-face wool Melton clutch jackets. Everything was cut forgivingly, flared and with extended Jesuitical trumpet sleeves. Wholesome certainly, but snazzy too – especially the plongé fringed skirts, fabulous gun-metal sequined pleated dresses, and Himalayan shearling coats for romantic winter walks. Every second gal wore flat riding boots or high, rugged wellies.
Plus, in a co-ed show there was even a Dixon of Dock Green moment, with one chap appearing in a wool Melton officer’s coat cape and riding pants.
The show was backed up by a live performance by fashion’s singer of the moment Orville Peck, who also performed at the mega Dior menswear party during Art Basel in Miami in December. Though Peck was on even greater form today in Manhattan, ending the show with a rousing version of “I Will Always Love You, just as Bella Hadid wafted by in a silken halter-neck cocktail.
Kors’ color palette was wholesome too – barley, ecru, olive and a hue Kors’ program notes defined as “banker black.”
“I just think that right now everyone needs coziness and to be enveloped in security. We’d all love to leave and go to the country but we still have to look good in the city,” Kors told FashionNetwork.com, seconds after posing for photos with Blake Lively and Julia Louis-Dreyfus.
Hence, even as he approaches his 40th anniversary next year, this fashion veteran continues to keep his fashion fresh.
“40 years next year! You’ve got to love it, no?” laughed the designer, as a swarm of fans engulfed him.