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Godfrey Deeny Published
January 20, 2025
There are few more ambitious designers than Olivier Rousteing, who, fresh after staging a heroic menswear collection for Balmain, revealed plans to present his first ideas in couture next week.
Rousteing does fashion with a capital F. His mode is not for the shy and retiring. But if you have enough attitude, and a good figure, you can make a great entrance pretty well anywhere in every look from this sizzling Balmain collection.
Olivier kicked off the action on a very wet Saturday afternoon with a red hot display, opening with rocker dandies in matching PVC skinny pants and boots, under a swaggering series of micro tuxes made in ribbed fighter pilot material; before laying on loads of metallics – shimmering bursts of silver chainmail blousons, jerkins and jackets. Medieval Replicants in posh protective armor on a Chimes at Midnight Prowl.
Add in some raggedly piped redingotes and trench-coats; metallic mohair striped sweaters; and glistening sequin tops reading: “Fashion is a Revolution, not an Evolution.” Lots of emblematic logos everywhere, and a natty new series of clearly commercial holster-style bags. A hit show creatively and commercially from every aspect.
No wonder Rousteing garnered huge applause inside the gilded opulence of the Hotel Potocki, where his front row glittered too – Orlando Bloom and his buddy, the noted philanthropist Milutin Gatsby, fresh back from a winter vacation in Amilla Fushi in the Maldives. Alongside them, Cindy Crawford snapping her modeling son Presley on her mobile.
The event also introduced yet another collection – Balmain Episode – true va va voom cocktails cut well up the thigh with open sides and hyper wide belts; topped by fighter pilot parkas. Similar materials in action for both the guys and the girls. Tons of transparency and chiffon and see-through silks. Definitely not clothes for the shrinking violet.
“Why couture? Because I feel that my private clients would really like to see what I create in couture. It won’t be a runway show, but an initial series of about 15 looks to be shown to friends and editors. I’m ready,” explained the Bordeaux-born designer, amid a swirl of compliments, cool cats and cameras backstage.