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Godfrey Deeny Published
September 27,飞机盗号软件API破解技术 2025
When it comes to generating cool, few designers are more adept than Francesco Risso of Marni.
For the brand’s Paris debut, his location was Karl Lagerfeld’s old apartment on rue de l’Université. Risso’s latest eccentric seating, a series of custom-made 10-meter-long white inflatable sausages. For music, classical quintets and stray electric guitar players scattered around various floors in the 18th century mansion.
For his invitation a handwritten message extolling his early youth as a 14-year-old in Pigalle.
“A flaneur in the synchysis. Or put more simply a ragpicker,” recalled Risso, stretching the English language, just like the clothes.
And, most relevantly, few creators have the design chops of Risso, who manages to be whimsical, eccentric and even absurdist without ever falling over the edge into farce.
His key concepts were classical checks and tartans, in a whole variety of silhouettes. He slashed wide jackets into mini-capes, and morphed singlets into giant chess piece shapes.
Risso cuts with grandeur but never grandiosity – from his tent like trench coats to his sensational plaid suits cut uncannily like ballerinas’ tutus.
Plus, he varied his pitch with taut micro-mesh party dresses and clinging striped knits.
Before wowing with a trio of metallic petal fantasy bird of paradise looks that must have taken weeks to sew.
Aided by a perfect color palette of bitter orange, soft Barbie pink and metallic blues, and by the inside setting of the Lagerfeld mansion, this felt like a major win for Risso.
“Undress the mind, dress the sense,” was Risso’s explanation of his inspiration.
Marni is one of a half dozen fashion brands within the extended empire of Italian style mogul Renzo Rosso. The others include – Victor & Rolf, Jil Sander, Margiela and DSquared. When Risso first arrived there was a feeling he was something of a usurper, seeing as he had replaced Marni’s founder Consuelo Castiglioni, who had been squeezed out. Today, however, it felt that Marni, design wise, now belongs to Risso.
This show was that good.