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AFP Published
February 15, 2025
NEW YORK, USA- Canadian-Taiwanese designer Jason Wu was the star of New York Fashion Week day two Friday, showing a collection inspired by the strength and seduction of French screen siren Catherine Deneuve.
Elegant tailored suits, jackets, coats and trousers were contrasted with body-clinging sheath dresses with cut-out backs, thigh-revealing splits and luxurious fur showcased seduction.
"I think with this collection there's something animalistic and very, very sexy," Wu told AFP backstage after the show in a SoHo loft, where the winter sun streamed through floor-to-ceiling windows.
"When you think about those silk dresses with the slits and also the lingerie-esque lace dresses and the fur at the end, that felt sexy and modern and seductive," Wu added.
The Jason Wu woman of fall/winter 2025 is sleek and minimalist. Feminine, chiffon blouses were paired with sharp trousers. Slinky evening dresses in delicate beading shimmered in white and navy.
Fur was a prominent feature, worn in stoles, as extravagant trim on a jacket or fashioned into belted gilets.
Wu kept the palate simple and subtle with olive, navy, the most delicate of pale blue-grays, black, white and splashes of coral.
US supermodel Karlie Kloss walked the runway and the 32-year-old designer praised her backstage as a special model, one who has poise, elegance and an enduring all-American appeal.
Wu, who shot to fame for dressing American First Lady Michelle Obama while in his mid-20s, said Deneuve was his inspiration this season.
"There's something quite Catherine Deneuve feeling about this collection and I feel like that was a good muse for the season," he told AFP.
Wu is the only designer in New York to showcase two collections for separate houses: his eponymous brand which was the highlight Friday and his collection for Germany luxury house Hugo Boss, which shows next week.
He said he has different rules for each brand but sees his own label as his "personal journey."
"When I design for Boss I think it's really much more about seeing the Boss DNA through my eyes. So it's two very different set of rules."
Otherwise the highlights of Friday were:
NEW KID ON THE BLOCK
The woman whose opinion matters most in the fashion world, "Vogue" editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, turned out for the minimalist collection unveiled by up and coming talent Wes Gordon, 28.
NOMADIC CHIC
Mongolian "It girl" and designer Bayarmaa Bayarkhuu made her debut with a catwalk collection inspired by her homeland.
Her collection for label Mongol was part nomadic and part space-age, an assortment of tunic dresses, luxurious fur coats and cashmere jumpsuits finished with elaborate head dresses and leather tasseled skirts.