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Godfrey Deeny Published
February 27, 2025
If you like a brand that respects its DNA even as it playfully reinvents it, then one has to admire Karl Lagerfeld, which presented swish new array of clothes on Tuesday.
“I call it 'Midnight in Paris', my idea of a movie shot here with lots of black and white,” explained Hun Kim, the house’s Korean-born creative director. His latest collection captured multiple key Lagerfeld signifiers – from the dramatic white short, to expressionist tailoring.
Plus, Kim’s multiple plays on monogram and logo had the wit and subtlety Karl would surely had enjoyed.
Herr Lagerfeld never liked to look back, and nor does Kim showing great bomber jackets in a new shearling made of wool; graphic art deco cardigans; classy four button peacoats and coat dresses in vegan leather.
His best idea was a cool take on padded leather, where interior elastic made the skin bubble faintly erratically. Seen in bomber jackets and a new half-moon bag, they all looked right on.
Also impressing in a presentation inside the brand’s French headquarters on rue St Guillaume were a new cut-out logo in Karl’s favorite accessory, his fan; KL link monogram technical gabardine suits; or shirts in a print of Karl’s signatures.
Add in the latest natty denim ideas in Karl Lagerfeld jeans and this seemed like a very good moment for the house and brand. So much so they have just doubled the size of their Amsterdam world headquarters, adding another fine residence on storied Herengracht canal.
Vaillant: Anti-Emily in Paris
Good to see the decline of the boardroom and business meeting in fashion, and a little more concern about the boudoir, a key reason why this latest collection by Vaillant felt so good.
Presented in Georges, the top floor, glass-walled restaurant of the Centre Pompidou, the show felt like a celebration of life. And Paris – seeing as guests got a great view over medieval Paris and the recently installed new spire of Notre Dame.
The models, strutting past great urban vistas, an optimistic setting for an optimistic, and very short length, collection. Led by damsels in faux-feather mini skirts and hoodies well splayed open; tuxedo dresses sprouting shards of metal silk; ruched fire engine red shirt dresses and some wonderful Go Go Girl turquoise sequined cocktails.
Though worn by an international cast, they all looked like they had been living in Paris for years. Which is generally a very good thing in fashion. And, indeed, in life. Think of them as the Anti-Emily in Paris, gals with style the American could only dream of.
This marked the second show by Alice Vaillant in Georges, the crown of the Centre Pompidou – one of the iconic buildings of our era. And a perfect location for her kicky, modernist clothes.
Backed up by Daft Punk’s homage 'Giorgio by Moroder', and worn by a cast who would clearly love to take these clothes home, this confirmed Vaillant as very much a marque and designer to watch.