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Nazia BIBI KEENOO Published
March 19, 2025
On March 4, 2025, luxury womenswear brand Pantterfly made its debut in Paris, unveiling a limited-time pop-up showroom on Rue des Gravilliers. Fashion Network China had the opportunity to visit Pantterfly's founder and creative director, Pan Rong, amidst her busy schedule. Beyond exploring the brand's latest business strategies and developments, the interview also aimed to shed light on the growing wave of Chinese high-end womenswear brands expanding into international markets.
Four cities: The metamorphosis of Pantterfly
In 2025, Pan Rong founded Pantterfly in Ningbo, combining her surname with "butterfly." The butterfly—symbolizing agility, beauty, and transformation—perfectly embodies femininity and defines the brand's dynamic and soaring trajectory.
Ningbo is not only a major port city on China's southeastern coast but also the historical birthplace of the renowned Hong Bang tailors, who earned their name by crafting garments for European merchants with red hair. With a family background rooted in this rich textile heritage, Pan Rong developed an innate sensitivity to the fusion of Eastern and Western fashion cultures. Coincidentally, Ningbo's abbreviation "甬" (Yǒng) is phonetically similar to "蛹" (Yǒng, chrysalis), evoking the image of Pantterfly's metamorphosis from cocoon to butterfly.
Starting in Ningbo, Pantterfly expanded to nearby cities like Hangzhou and Cixi. Facing a bottleneck in brand growth, Pan Rong pursued further studies in Milan at Istituto Marangoni, gaining expertise in textile innovation and global fashion perspectives. Milan, a city deeply rooted in artisanal craftsmanship, not only broadened Pantterfly's international vision but also strengthened Pan Rong's understanding of advanced techniques and innovative fabrics.
Shanghai became the springboard for Pantterfly's transformation, marking a pivotal stage in the brand's evolution. Since 2025, it has been invited to the official schedule of Shanghai Fashion Week for five consecutive years, accumulating valuable industry resources and capturing the attention of international buyers. Its deep collaboration with the fashion week committee also facilitated a strategic upgrade in craftsmanship, incorporating both Chinese and Western embroidery techniques and partnering with Pantone for color innovation.
These four cities—Ningbo, Milan, Shenzhen, and Shanghai—have collectively formed a closed-loop ecosystem of craftsmanship, design, technology, and commerce, propelling Pantterfly from a local brand to a global player. This journey is not unique to Pantterfly; many Chinese brands are undergoing a similar metamorphosis. From emerging from the cocoon to taking flight, a rich cultural heritage combined with a global perspective has become an invaluable asset for Chinese fashion brands navigating the international stage.
Next stop, Paris
Regarding Pantterfly's March showroom debut in Paris, Pan Rong shared with Fashion Network China that the accompanying pop-up store will unveil the brand's fall/winter 2025 collection, themed "Colors in Fog." The new collection continues Pantterfly's signature modern and contemporary aesthetic.
She revealed, "The inspiration came from a trip. The place I stayed had a forest park outside the window, and mist enveloped the entire forest in the morning. The air carried the scent of earth and fresh grass; at that moment, I could hear my inner voice more clearly—it felt like a kind of purification. So in this collection, we boldly balanced the brightness and intensity of colors, making them neither overly striking nor dull but with a subtle intrigue, expressing the warmth of autumn and winter, as well as the cleansing essence of nature."
According to Fashion Network China, choosing Paris as the brand's first overseas showroom location was a bold and strategic decision. During Paris Fashion Week 2025, many Chinese designer brands were simplified by foreign media as mere showcases of "Chinese style" symbols. So, how does Pantterfly avoid becoming just another cultural exhibit in the global fashion window?
Pan Rong openly acknowledged the commercial considerations behind the decision. "Paris is not just the world's fashion capital; it is also a global hub for buyers. Its significance goes beyond geography—like an ancient, precisely engineered clock, where every gear carries the collective memory of the fashion industry. It is a dynamic field where creativity and commerce resonate."
But her greatest confidence stems from the design itself. From "Breath" to "An Isolated Garden," from "Flora by the Sea" to the latest "Colors in Fog," Pantterfly has consistently steered away from traditional Chinese symbol aesthetics. Instead of relying on superficial cultural motifs, the brand's showroom aims to shape a distinct design identity, one that integrates minimalist tailoring, deconstructivism, and reinterpreted European fabrics. Through deep aesthetics and a unique design language, Pantterfly seeks to establish a new dialogue rather than merely grafting cultural elements onto fashion.
The path of brand expansion: Pantterfly's global journey
As a pioneer in China's high-end custom womenswear for 13 years, Pantterfly has clearly developed a nuanced and strategic perspective on international expansion, shaped by years of industry observation and deep reflection.
According to Pan Rong, the key to a brand's global growth lies in striking a balance between cultural resonance and distinctiveness. Over-adapting to local markets risks losing brand identity, while rigidly adhering to a domestic model may lead to cultural clashes. Brands aiming to expand internationally must distill their core essence and reinterpret local cultural elements through a global lens.
Summarizing Pantterfly's international approach, Pan Rong emphasizes: "As Chinese fashion designers, we should be cultural interpreters, not symbol transporters. Every collection is rooted in deep cultural exploration, making deconstruction the true essence of fashion. To thrive globally, we must maintain a delicate tension between local thinking and global expression—only then can a brand continue to grow and evolve on the world stage."
Following its showcase in Paris, Pantterfly will continue its fall/winter 2025 journey with a pop-up store at Maison Wave Gallery on the Bund in Shanghai from March 26 to 29. This marks another key milestone in the brand's global-local strategy, reinforcing its presence in both international fashion capitals and its home market.
Writer: Shao Chuan
Translated by Viryenni Hung Zhao