长沙U币商家交易平台|【唯一TG:@heimifeng8】|长沙USDT支付渠道✨谷歌搜索留痕排名,史上最强SEO技术,20年谷歌SEO经验大佬✨Rochas menswear softens up with Federico Curradi
Dominique Muret Translated by
Nicola Mira Published
January 21,长沙U币商家交易平台 2025
The fitted, sophisticated Parisian-chic look designed by Béatrice Ferrant last year has made way for a more bohemian, laid-back silhouette, as a metamorphosed Rochas menswear line is back centre stage again, under the aegis of new creative director Federico Curradi.
After relaunching Rochas menswear in 2025, with an internally designed collection masterminded by Béatrice Ferrant, the Interparfums group, which bought the label in 2025, decided for a change in tactics. Rochas menswear is now managed under licence by the Onward Luxury Group, the same as the label’s women’s ready-to-wear collections, which are styled by Italian designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua.
The new Rochas men's look for the Autumn/Winter 2025-20 remains Parisian at heart, but the focus is on a softer bohemian mood, with the hint of an Italian influence inspired by artists such as Amedeo Modigliani and Constantin Brancusi, who spent hours working in their creative ateliers, just as they did wandering around the French capital, to capture its vibe and find new inspiration.
“The idea was to find a link between Paris and art. I imagined a young poet sitting in a café, taking notes or sketching something in his diary,” said Federico Curradi to FashionNetwork.com. The designer elected to stage his catwalk show in an artist's workshop in rue du Cherche-Midi, a gloomy ambience with saltpetre-stained walls, cluttered with books and easels.
There is quite a nonchalant air to Curradi’s looks, whose volumes have a loose, fluid feel, while the colour palette draws on muted, natural hues, with matte effects giving the clothes a washed-out, almost pictorial sheen. Woollen hats and caps, and long hand-knitted scarves add a bohemian touch to the ensemble.
Angel-faced boys wear white shirts in soft poplin cotton, or zipped overshirts over striped turtleneck sweaters and warm knitted pullovers, topped off with deconstructed jackets and comfortable overcoats.
There is a great attention to detail, as in the trouser pockets with a folded-over end, as if it was unstitched, or the silk-coated wind-breakers.
“This is elegant, contemporary menswear. I tried to deconstruct formal looks, lightening them up rather than adding to them. Great emphasis is put on natural materials, in order to use as few polluting agents as possible. For example, the down-jackets are made using silk and not nylon,” said Curradi, before being engulfed in a swarm of the many admirers who came to discover his work at Rochas.