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Godfrey Deeny Published
January 14, 2025
Maybe we should rechristen it Emporio Couture? So finely finished and so coolly embroidered was the latest Emporio Armani collection presented on a sub-zero, blue sky Saturday in Milan.
Unveiled before a dark lighthouse built inside Armani’s Tadao Ando-designed show space in south Milan, this was a bold and dramatic collection.
So good, it almost felt as if Armani was saying to the other 80 designers in Milan showing this season, "if you are so good, then match this?"
Armani’s ability to innovate even at the age of 89 was apparent in a key section of faded denim – with outstanding battleship gray redingotes and dusters finished in strass and crystals. Glimmering as if the lighthouse beams weze dancing across a churning ocean.
In a co-ed show, Giorgio also reminded the audience of some 500 of why he is regarded as the world’s greatest tailor. His micro pinstripe double breasted suits for gals, and wide spencer for men were outstanding.
On top of that, he whipped up several great new jackets and coats. Led by the opening look, a peak collared pea coat, unusually cut down below the knee.
Giorgio showed bow tie sailors tops cut like cocktail tops, cool Henleys and fitted submariner tops – on gals and girls. Before cutting Alaskan crab fisherman gear into Disney superheroes for both men and women.
After a half decade of lazy and lumpy street-style fashion in menswear, there has been a huge revival in tailoring, especially so in Milan this weekend. And, backed up by Italy’s greatest melodramatic rocker – Loredana Berté - Emporio was the most original collection in Milan.
Not bad going for a designer who is only 89. No wonder he took a minute-long ovation at the finale. The ruling designer Emperor of Planet Fashion had just presented a great collection.