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Dominique Muret Published
September 30,XSS持久化快排 2025
Bright colours, huge bows, flowers, frills, sparkles and sheer gauze.. It's the jubilant, colorful spirit of Emanuel Ungaro resurrected by Marco Colagrossi, the luxury brand's new creative director, in his first collection, unveiled on Friday at the Pavillon Ledoyen, in a marquee which had been transformed into an eighties disco for the occasion.
The Italian designer, who has already worked for Dolce & Gabbana and Giorgio Armani, revisited the codes of the brand's eponymous founder, reimagining them with a relaxed, contemporary twist, and playing with contrasting materials: jacquard, tulle, silk, organza and cellophane, PVC and metallic mesh.
Flowers appeared on jacquard mini-dresses and in floral prints, but were also sewn, 3D, onto trousers. There were also plenty of polka dots but they always seemed to be in movement, like the circles of red fabric sewn onto a turquoise dress. Models sported large bows of colored tulle around their necks, a fuchsia satin skirt was worn with lurex knitwear.
"I conceived this collection as a first step, intended as an homage to Emanuel Ungaro. I wanted to revive the Ungaro woman, warm, extravagant and strong, while also adding a touch of softness to her", the designer explained backstage.
In this spirit, models were wearing kitten heels, while the silhouette was intentionally rounded by tulip skirts, puffed shoulders, leg-of-mutton sleeves and long-trained dresses trimmed with frills. The coats in particular, like elegant dressing gowns with wide lapels, were a real success.
"I wanted to pick up an unfinished story and bring it back to life", concludes Marco Colagrossi, who found inspiration for one of his pieces in a grey flannel pantsuit sketched by Emanuel Ungaro. He recreated it with frayed edges and the addition of sleeves in purple tulle.