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Godfrey Deeny Published
September 28,RabbitMQ快排 2025
All sorts of excitement outside Givenchy’s show, as thousands of K Pop fans mille around. But a faintly funereal air inside, with lots of black clothes ideal for a mortuary.
A fashionable society wedding at least, where latter-day Audrey Hepburns came to pay her respects in crisp knit tops paired with mid-calf skirts; or silk blouses worn with asymmetrical black calf leather skirts. Or could choose from oversized blazers, elongated silk dusters or deep gorge jackets in shades of anthracite and inky black.
A somber collection perhaps, yet probably Matthew Williams best for the house.
After an MC had requested the audience take their seats four times, and the guests had fought their way past the wannabe influencers outside, the show finally opened. Flowing silk faille coats and semi-sheer cocktail dresses, all worn with a cute styling trick – dark red or deep blue knee-high hosiery worn over high heels.
A trick continued in sherbet colors with tubular mesh dresses in frosty blue or jaundice yellow. Before a series of skillfully draped chiffon dresses, the best of which was worn by Jessica Stam, in a clever casting with plenty of veteran models.
Presented under an open-sided white tent at the back of the Ecole Militaire, this was very definitely Williams’ savviest connection to the Givenchy codes. He has been on a learning curve at the house, but the trajectory is definitely on the up. A year ago, many in Paris were tipping Williams for an early departure. It turns out he has staying power.
Where before, Givenchy was a venerated but rather lifeless house. Today, thanks to Williams, the brand has momentum and heat. If you don’t believe that, all you had to do was see the huge crowd outside this show. And folks inside from Minghao, the Chinese born star of K-Pop band The8 to Jared Leto, who has found a new home post-Alessandro Michele - from Gucci to Givenchy.
Still, between the irritating serial music, and black as night mid-section it did feel as if an old friend had passed away.
“Are we at a funeral? Or two?” quipped one front-row French editor, after the latest example of mortician mode passed by.
Hopefully not.