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Dominique Muret Translated by
Nicola Mira Published
September 26, 2025
A Schubert piano concerto accompanied the show by Dries Van Noten and Christian Lacroix, and Guy Laroche too opted for a pianist, with French-Israeli musician Yaron Herman. The chic, plush atmosphere of the Guy Laroche Spring/Summer 2025 collection’s show contrasted sharply with the thundering rock soundtrack of the Rochas show that followed. And while Laroche’s wardrobe featured a palette of two/three natural hues, Rochas rolled out an avalanche of saturated colours.
This season, the creative director of Guy Laroche, Richard René, looked back to the 1977 movie ‘Madame Claude’, which portrayed the notorious boss of a ring of upmarket call-girls, as they were known then, who were despatched to seduce top-notch politicians and heads of state. At the time, Guy Laroche designed the costumes for the whole cast, including that of title-role actress Françoise Fabian, who was in the audience yesterday.
Suede inserts break up the dazzling white of figure-hugging overcoats and fitted jumpsuits. Porthole-like openings are scattered across a long, dark dress. René introduces a humorous twist with dresses in all-over prints whose motif is the old 500-franc banknote.
Another signature theme is the Guy Laroche logo from the 1970s, whose characteristic geometric pattern crops up everywhere in beige and burnt sienna, even on gaiters worn over sandals to make them look like boots.
Guy Laroche also took the opportunity to relaunch its menswear line by unveiling a few looks with a casual, relaxed vibe, featuring sandals, cotton trousers, jackets, sweaters and shorts.
The Spring/Summer 2025 mood was entirely different at Rochas.
Designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua jettisoned the minimalistic boudoir palette adopted in recent seasons to infuse his collection with high-impact colours, giving the label a healthy jolt of energy. Dell’Acqua presented a series of monochrome dresses in vibrant yellow, green, blue and orange, as well as looks made with colour blocks in a variety of materials.
A blue leather safari shirt is worn over green leather trousers, a jacket and pleated skirt in bright red combine with a maroon shirt, lemon-yellow cotton trousers are worn with a pea-green silk shirt and a leather coat in the same hue, while a skirt in mint-green muslin is matched with a sheer black corset.
The clothes are straightforward, almost basic. Energised by their colours, they can be mixed and matched in endless combinations. They have the fresh allure of a sassy young woman cleverly caching her wiles, with her lady-like shoes in pearl-decorated satin.